What is chikan?

Chikan Embroidery: A Delicate Art

Chikan (also known as Lucknawi Chikan) is a traditional embroidery style from Lucknow, India. It is one of the best known textile decoration styles of the country. Translating literally to 'embroidery', Chikan is believed to have been introduced to India by the Mughals.

Key Features:

• Technique: It's a delicate and intricate form of shadow work embroidery. The process involves creating various stitches on white muslin or cotton cloth, traditionally using white thread.

• Materials: While originally done on fine muslin, modern Chikan work can also be found on fabrics like cotton, silk, chiffon, organza, and more. Thread colors have expanded beyond white to include pastel shades and other vibrant hues.

• Stitches: Numerous stitches are used in Chikan embroidery. Some popular ones include tepchi, bakhiya, hool, zanjeera, rahet, banarsi, khatau, and murri. These stitches create different textures and patterns on the fabric.

• Motifs: Common motifs include floral patterns, paisleys, and geometric designs. The motifs are often inspired by Mughal art and architecture.

• Process: The process of creating a Chikan garment is labor-intensive. It involves washing the fabric, block-printing the design, embroidering the design, washing the finished piece to remove the printing marks, and finally, finishing.

Significance:

• Chikan embroidery is not just a craft but a significant part of the cultural heritage of Lucknow.

• It provides livelihood for thousands of artisans, particularly women, in the region.

• Chikan garments are highly valued for their elegance, comfort, and intricate detailing.